Motorcycle maintenance tips: Do you have any to share?

SFC Private RallyPoint Member — Sun, 21 Jun 2015 20:47:31 -0400

So, this is a spot to post any tips you have about taking care of your ride - specifically, your scooter, sled, crotch rocket, rice burner, geezer glide, or road sofa... you know - your MOTORCYCLE! Here's my first tip:

Got chrome? If you do, and you have problems getting road tar and bugs off of it no matter how hard you scrub, then this is for you:

Go find Abraham Lincoln - you know, a penny. Now use it to lightly scrub the bug/tar/dirt that is on your precious chrome audio bass thunder pipes... or any other chrome (and ONLY chrome) that you have!

Because copper is softer than chrome, it WILL NOT scratch the chrome, but is hard enough to get the dastardly insect off your pipes!

Don't believe me? Go try it out somewhere where it won't be noticed (like right next to where the pipe comes out of your thunder maker's engine). You'll be surprised!

Response by SFC Derek Ashman made Jun 21 at 2015 8:50 PM

SFC Derek Ashman — Sun, 21 Jun 2015 20:50:31 -0400

Yeah that's why I don't like chrome and getting all chrome powder coated black. Easier to maintain and it looks good with my paint scheme than chrome

Response by 1SG David Lopez made Jun 21 at 2015 10:07 PM

1SG David Lopez — Sun, 21 Jun 2015 22:07:58 -0400

Number 1: Battery tender. Got to have one to keep your bikes battery fully charged. Especially during deployments and/or long periods of time when your bike is not in use. They have an easy attachment that hooks to your battery, it hangs just below your seat tucked inside when not in use. Pull out the easy connect and plug in your battery tender when parked, so that you do not worry about having a dead battery when it is time to ride.
Number 2: The first time I took my bike to the Harley dealer for its 1,000 mile maintanance, they charged me almost $300. I flipped a lid and asked what exactly did they do. They said, we can give you a print out. I read the print out of the maintanance they performed and I told the Harley Dealer guy, I could have done this. I keep that print out and perform that routine maintanance myself. Change oil, oil filter, air filter, check air, brake fluid, bolts for tightness, look for leaks, check battery, check brake pads, normal common sense things that any person can do at home. Maybe call a buddy to help you the first time or check online (you tube) you will be surprised what you can accomplish yourself and not pay the dealer $100 a hour for their labor.
Number 3: Other cosmetic or performance upgrades you can do yourself as well. Lowering kit front and back, easy look online/you tube. Air filter same; handle bars same; saddle bags same; chrome, lights, etc. same. Save yourself the labor costs and do it yourself.
Number 4: know your limitations. I do not change my tires, I let a professional do that. Engine work, valves, timing chain, I take to a trusted mechanic. I research first, so that I am somewhat a little more educated on what they may actually do to my bike. But I let them tell me what they need to do, if I think it is outrageous, i'll call them on it.
Number 5: call the dealer if you want to do something to your bike. They will tell you how many hours of labor they will charge you. I changed my handlebars on my 2014 ultra limited, it took me around two hours. The dealer wanted to charge me 8 hours. I'm no expert, but that sounded to me quite excessive.
Good luck and enjoy, that's what its all about. Ride Safe.

Response by CSM Michael J. Uhlig made Jun 21 at 2015 10:31 PM

CSM Michael J. Uhlig — Sun, 21 Jun 2015 22:31:59 -0400

#1 buy a quality manual, at least read the general part of it which gives you a description of how your bike works as well as what fluids go where....

#2 do not clean (or use a bike cover) just after you've ridden the bike...let it cool off

#3 invest in good cleaners, I use S-100, buy it directly from the Harley shop (if someone knows where to buy it cheaper, let me know)

#4 sign up with an online forum, there are others that own similar bikes that are willing to share experience as far as what works and what to avoid for your particular make/model.

http://go.fixmyhog.com/email1b/?gclid=CLDaxO6gosYCFSjMtAoduYsFqw

Response by PO1 John Miller made Jun 21 at 2015 11:09 PM

PO1 John Miller — Sun, 21 Jun 2015 23:09:44 -0400

If anybody can tell me exactly how I can make my Harley louder, I would appreciate it! I've read about slip-on pipes and what not, but I've also read a bunch of other stuff that makes my head hurt. If I can get the classic deep thundery Harley sound without sacrificing horse power and do the work myself to save a few hundred bucks I'm all for it.

Response by SGM Erik Marquez made Jun 22 at 2015 11:30 AM

SGM Erik Marquez — Mon, 22 Jun 2015 11:30:52 -0400

I'll take this one further... If you have a question post it.. I build and repair bikes for a living and have for a number of years. My wife is the service manager for a 6 brand dealer, my youngest son a lead Tech at that same dealer. If I don't know, I won't BS, and can likely point you in a direction to find out the needed answer.

Response by MSgt E. W. Forbess made Jun 25 at 2015 3:39 PM

MSgt E. W. Forbess — Thu, 25 Jun 2015 15:39:16 -0400

Keep in mind the age of the gas in the tank and fuel system. Draining it or at least using fuel stabilizer before letting the bike sit for an extended period will save you $$$ and headaches.

Response by CW3 Scott Webster made Jun 26 at 2015 11:55 AM

CW3 Scott Webster — Fri, 26 Jun 2015 11:55:49 -0400

I have older bikes with tube tires, and can't overemphasize a good pressure gauge with a flexible extension. Tire technology has improved, so use the manufacturer's recommended pressures as a start point, and adjust as needed to give the safest ride quality.
For cleaning plated parts, Colonel Brassy has done the best job for me; may be harder to find, but worth it for the results.

Response by SGT Adrian Thompson made Jun 28 at 2015 5:48 AM

SGT Adrian Thompson — Sun, 28 Jun 2015 05:48:05 -0400

Here is my contribution. Comprehensive HD parts list with blow-up pictures for free.
http://partsfinder.onlinemicrofiche.com/ronnies/showmodel.asp?make=hdmc

Response by LTC Private RallyPoint Member made Jun 29 at 2015 11:44 AM

LTC Private RallyPoint Member — Mon, 29 Jun 2015 11:44:44 -0400

Don't tip it over.

Response by MAJ Chris Rice made Jun 30 at 2015 9:40 PM

MAJ Chris Rice — Tue, 30 Jun 2015 21:40:36 -0400

Buy a product named Awesome, you can get it at the dollar store. Mix according to the type of surface you are going to clean. If cleaning chrome, soak 000 steel wool with the awesome mixture and it will remove tar, rust, etc... Rinse with water and dry, do not get it in painted surfaces.

Response by CSM Charles Hayden made Jun 30 at 2015 9:54 PM

CSM Charles Hayden — Tue, 30 Jun 2015 21:54:59 -0400

SFC Marc Wayman, Elder advice for y'all! Do not ride into the CA hills on a Cushman motor scooter (4 hp?), w/ a friend on a Mustang, mini-motorcycle, (5 1/2 hp?) I learned how to do a valve job after that ride!

Response by CW3 Kevin Storm made Aug 3 at 2015 6:13 PM

CW3 Kevin Storm — Mon, 03 Aug 2015 18:13:37 -0400

I use an old cleaned out mustard bottle, and fill it with distilled water for adding water to batteries. The tip is the perfect size, once in the hole, squeeze lightly and top off the fluid level. No muss, no fuss.

Response by MSG Tim Gray made Aug 4 at 2015 12:14 AM

MSG Tim Gray — Tue, 04 Aug 2015 00:14:34 -0400

If you separate the rear sprocket from the rim, most manufacturers state "replace those bolts with new ones" I've seen where the original bolts were reused to include loctite and torquing to specs. The result-catastrophic failure! The Sprocket bolts backed out and engaged the swing arm. If you think you can reuse those bolts, carry a first aid kit with a tourniquet! You'll need it!

Response by CW3 Kevin Storm made Jan 11 at 2018 4:41 PM

CW3 Kevin Storm — Thu, 11 Jan 2018 16:41:12 -0500

One of the best things you can do for your self is join a someone like AAA and pay for the piece of mind that of having platinum level protection if you need a tow. I pay the extra money to ge the upgrade so if needed I can get a 200 mile tow.

Response by SFC Greg Bruorton made Jan 11 at 2018 5:04 PM

SFC Greg Bruorton — Thu, 11 Jan 2018 17:04:33 -0500

Now you tell us! I always used a creamy paste in a small red jar (can't remember the name) to clean my chrome. The process was lengthy but successful.

Response by CW3 Kevin Storm made Jan 11 at 2018 6:27 PM

CW3 Kevin Storm — Thu, 11 Jan 2018 18:27:30 -0500

oooo steel wool (also known as 4 ought) is good for cleaning chrome wheels and getting the crap that gets on them, be gentle and take your time. I personally like S-100 for washing and clean bikes. Buy the kit and you get a polish, spray soap, and other stuff. Add an aftermarket micro fiber cloth or a Shammie cloth and this will cover most of your cleaning needs.

Response by CW3 Kevin Storm made Jan 11 at 2018 6:28 PM

CW3 Kevin Storm — Thu, 11 Jan 2018 18:28:24 -0500

When topping off battery cells with water, use an old washed out mustard squeeze bottle. It fits in the port of the battery cell and you can control the rate of flow better than with a straight pour.

Response by CW3 Kevin Storm made Jan 11 at 2018 6:29 PM

CW3 Kevin Storm — Thu, 11 Jan 2018 18:29:40 -0500

Polycarbonate wind shields should never be washed with Ammonia based products. It will mess them up fast.

Response by CW3 Kevin Storm made Jan 11 at 2018 6:30 PM

CW3 Kevin Storm — Thu, 11 Jan 2018 18:30:51 -0500

Going along the Ocean is a great experience on a Motorcycle, don't ruin the experience by leaving your bike unwashed when you get home. Give it a good rinse off and let it dry before covering. Salt in the air will attack anything that is Aluminum or unprotected.

Response by CW3 Kevin Storm made Jan 11 at 2018 6:32 PM

CW3 Kevin Storm — Thu, 11 Jan 2018 18:32:11 -0500

Lubing the chain on a chain drive motorcycle, to avoid the mess at home, an old rider told me to do it at the Gas station while filling up, put the bike on the center stand if equipped, and put it in first gear at low idle, now spray away.

Response by CW3 Kevin Storm made Jan 11 at 2018 6:34 PM

CW3 Kevin Storm — Thu, 11 Jan 2018 18:34:25 -0500

Tires: Here is my thoughts, buy the best you can afford, labor for changing a $50 Cheng Sing tire and a $300 dollar Dunlop tire are about the same, a cheap tire wears faster, so you labor costs go up. And it is more likely to leave you on the side of the road.

Response by CW3 Kevin Storm made Jan 11 at 2018 6:39 PM

CW3 Kevin Storm — Thu, 11 Jan 2018 18:39:22 -0500

General rule of thumb on charging systems: System is overcharging above 12.5-14 volts DC: Voltage regulator is bad, system is under charging: Most likely bad ground or stator has gone bad.

Keep in mind if a Voltage regulator goes bad, you may have to replace the battery as well. Why? Because when a regulator goes bad it allows AC voltage to go in-rectified to DC, to you battery. Thus damaging it. It may never hold a charge correctly again. Low voltage can be a sign of a bad ground cable, a bad ground and possible a bad or soon to be bad fuse. Damaged or old wiring harness can also cause low voltage. Some bikes a stator is fairly easy, and some other bikes take it to the shop as it is a first class nightmare to get to (Gold Wing Riders you know what I am talking about). They are by far, the worst I have ever dealt with.

Response by CW3 Kevin Storm made Jan 11 at 2018 7:04 PM

CW3 Kevin Storm — Thu, 11 Jan 2018 19:04:21 -0500

Bike keeps popping fuses, here is a simple do it your self tool, save an old headlight (12 volt) one that the low beam has burned out on. Now wire in a pair of leads to the terminals of the side of the headlight that still works. Now crimp on a solderless spade connector to the each lead, take a moment to file the spade to size of the place where the fuse goes. Now with the bike in the off position, pu the leads in the place of that fuse that keeps burning out. Now with the headlight pointed at a wall, turn on the bike and begin to uncouple one component at a time that is part of a circuit (you may need your bikes schematic for this), now as you go along watch the headlight, it will be bright, when it goes dim or not so bright, you will have that part of the circuit that is drawing more amperage and is most likely the cause of the problem, check that component to see if it is good and go from there. This works: It works because the headlight can handle the increased amp load, and allow you time to trouble shoot the system. If it starts blowing the headlight, you have a bigger problem.

Response by CW3 Kevin Storm made Jan 11 at 2018 7:06 PM

CW3 Kevin Storm — Thu, 11 Jan 2018 19:06:06 -0500

Look for an old spray deodorant that leave a powdery residue. This stuff is great for looking for leaks. The powder is normally corn starch or some other natural powder, spray the engine cold, and turn the motor over after washing it to see where the oil leak is coming from.

Response by CW3 Kevin Storm made Jan 11 at 2018 7:08 PM

CW3 Kevin Storm — Thu, 11 Jan 2018 19:08:37 -0500

Lubing cables, Throttle and clutch cables can benefit from periodic lubing. There are lubing devices that go on the cable or you can use a dry lube that has a needle like device on the end of the bottle, both work well. Work the lube in until you see it coming out the other end. Move the cable back and fourth to ensure it gets in all the nooks and crannies. Never force a cable to go into hard bend.

Response by CW3 Kevin Storm made Jan 11 at 2018 7:10 PM

CW3 Kevin Storm — Thu, 11 Jan 2018 19:10:04 -0500

Putting on a nice new chrome exhaust???? Before you fire it up, ensure you have wiped it down several times of all finger prints grease, and anything else. Once you fire it up the fingerprints will be forever in the chrome.

Response by CW3 Kevin Storm made Jan 11 at 2018 7:15 PM

CW3 Kevin Storm — Thu, 11 Jan 2018 19:15:18 -0500

When changing brake pads, First cover or remove all painted parts (DOT 3 & 4 fluids are paint eaters, DOT 5 is not. 5 is not interchangeable with a 3/4 system so don't bother trying), now
pump up the brakes before you start, have a friend help you if have too. Now bleed off some of the pressure, close the valve, and now release the brake. Do not pump it up again...yet. By doing this you bleed off some of the fluid, and don't force crappy fluid back up the system. Now you have a little free play to get the caliper off and now remove the pads. Install the new pads, and reinstall the caliper per you manual. Now begin the brake bleeding process, bleeding the brakes until clean fluid comes through. Have the fluid go into a container. Dispose of the fluid as you would any other auto fluid...properly.

Response by CW3 Kevin Storm made Jan 11 at 2018 7:17 PM

CW3 Kevin Storm — Thu, 11 Jan 2018 19:17:58 -0500

When using touch up paint:
Start off in the morning after all the dew has burned off.
Thin the paint if needed,
Use a brush stroke in one direction, not back and fourth or side to side, go from left to right pick up the brush and go back to the left and do it again. until it looks like you have covered everything. This gives a nice blended touch up instead of glop of hell.