Posted on May 26, 2020
Anyone have proven/time-tested tips/tricks for maintaining firearms during extended use in wet climates/environments?
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When I did boardings at sea, I mandated the team clean their weapons after every boarding. Full breakdown including mags. This was more for the high humidity and salt spray, but also because I hated Beretta's. Plus, the more you did it, the less time it took. Since we cleaned them religiously, never saw any parts failures.
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LCDR Joshua Gillespie
Good gouge. Down here in the sunny, sultry South... anything that finds itself outside after sundown in the summer is going to be soaked by morning. I generally coat all internal parts with a thin layer of WD-40 (after cleaning), and it seems to work well (no "explosions" and or "gumming up" as some warn).
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CWO3 (Join to see)
LCDR Joshua Gillespie - WD is good stuff, fish oil derivative with many uses. A small can is a must for go bag. Duct tape and/or 100 mph cord (550). Good ap knife, meds, comm, weps, compass, a few d rings.
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LCDR Joshua Gillespie
I've used a lot of expensive lubes, and have found that CLP and WD are as good or better than the "fancy" stuff. I keep rolls of "Gorilla" tape (basically a more readily available variant of high-end duct tape) and electrical tape in stock... because I use the heck out of 'em. I use "Ranger Bands" for many applications... from securing pull tabs on packs and webbing, to affixing things I don't want to "fall off". I don't smoke, but I carry a lighter everywhere I go, and keep several in a waterproof bag along with ferro rod. For my kayaking trips, I took an old Cordura plate carrier and replaced the ballistic plates with closed cell foam inserts to act as a MOLLE life jacket. This allows me to keep an IFAK, fire-starting materials, knife, and other "last ditch" essentials on my person in the event I get rolled, and loose any of my other gear in whitewater.
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Diesel fuel or LSA and lots of cleaning. Naval Jelly when back in garrison.
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Ok-so maybe an obvious answer (or three) here... but I'm looking for the opinions/advice of those who've tried it with their own stuff. I've always heard (and followed suit) with the idea that since people often fight, hunt, etc. in the rain or snow... it all comes down to good lubrication, cleaning after use, and making sure the weapon's not full of water when you fire. Since most of us no longer have armorers to take care of things... I'm more interested in specifics relating to weapons that have been recently TOTALLY submerged (overturned kayak/swimming to hunting area, etc.). Does everyone do a full disassembly (bare frame upper/lower) after each submersion? Anyone see serious rusting of springs in PMAGs, fire control group, etc.? Are there any parts one MUST change out, no matter how soon/much they clean after taking a bath? Muzzle cap/no cap? Coatings? All input welcome.
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CWO3 (Join to see)
Just like saltwater checks on vehicles every time you splash. They're a pain but should be done. Moving parts don't interface with rust or friction well. Trucks or triggers. Use whatever you have to dry one out if no cleaning gear is on hand. Lube asap if possible. Bacon grease or cooking oil will suffice for rust but not longer term due to nitrites etc. Compressed air via mouth is an expedient for foreign material(s) and water. A limber limb for bore punch. Some time by a fire. Anything stainless or finished will be ok. Raw metal gets ugly fast, especially in salt, screws and similar.
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LCDR Joshua Gillespie
CWO3 (Join to see) - The Navy does teach corrosion control pretty effectively. I also learned a lot from the Cadre at Ft. Riley during ETT training. We had a couple gentlemen who were wearing lots of "tabs" that tired to impart some wisdom over three months. I was also very fortunate to spend some time with Army units in the field in Afghanistan, and tried to "absorb" what I saw others doing (I especially learned a few lessons about surviving in cold weather). My father was an Airborne NCO, and LRRP... so he taught me a few things along the way as well ;)
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I have covered the muzzles with small balloon's taped in place. To ensure all moving parts function as
designed try this. Not many in special ops. know this so you may be the first.
Ever heard of a product called "RIG"? It is a grease and lube. It is impervious to salt water and other corrosive liquids. It does not rub off easily. Coat all moving parts with RIG. Never for inside a barrel.
Not recommended for dusty climates or sub zero weather. In these climates use only a light coat on
moving parts. Great in wet and muggy climates. Sheds water like nothing else.
designed try this. Not many in special ops. know this so you may be the first.
Ever heard of a product called "RIG"? It is a grease and lube. It is impervious to salt water and other corrosive liquids. It does not rub off easily. Coat all moving parts with RIG. Never for inside a barrel.
Not recommended for dusty climates or sub zero weather. In these climates use only a light coat on
moving parts. Great in wet and muggy climates. Sheds water like nothing else.
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You mean in civilian life. I keep the muzzle in a safe direction down, and the action under my jacket/poncho. Then my regular cleaning when home.
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LCDR Joshua Gillespie
Thank you. Military field experiences would certainly be valid for me. I'm fortunate enough to spend quite a bit of time in fairly remote locations... many of which are wetlands. Where it's legal, I'm always armed. If I'm toting a long gun, I'll generally keep it in a dry bag during water transit if not actively hunting... but due to some of the wildlife (venomous snakes in particular, and maybe snappers... some of which approach the size of truck tires down here), I like having something "handy"; even while kayaking or wading (again, where and when legal). For some locations, even the kayak is too much, and while I clean my weapons "religiously"... I'm looking for any "wisdom" others have used to extend the life of parts, prevent stoppages, etc.
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A rubber banded Trojan works and you can shoot through it. But take care, once it’s on your muzzle you should not reuse on liberty
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