Posted on Jul 22, 2016
What important tips and tricks about photography and graphic design do you wish you'd known sooner?
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I'll start with saving images as PNG to support transparency and the great FREE apps GIMP and Pixlr.
Drawing
Graphic Design
Graphic Designer
Photography
Photographer
Posted >1 y ago
Responses: 6
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SGT David T.
SGT (Join to see) - It is an uncompressed format so you can manipulate all of the data in an image.
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GySgt (Join to see)
You basically can edit it twice - the first time using Bridge (from PS) and then round it out in Photoshop. Its good stuff.
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Sgt Christian ORourke
SGT (Join to see) - Not shooting in RAW limits everything. With RAW you get a Digital Negative, shoot in JPEG and you get a Digital Picture. That's the easiest way to understand, with a negative, I can create larger format images and more freedom in editing in the end.
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Always shoot in both color and in monochrome, and when shooting digitally, also mix in a few conventional rolls of film, and for really exceptional images also shoot some sheet film.
Shoot in both RAW and JPG at the same time, and have enough of the digital darkroom set up on site so that hardcopy images can be made with little fuss, and CD's or thumb drive's can be provided with "reference images" to the client or model.
Always, without exception, insert a copyright notice inside each and every images at the point of transferring from the camera, into the computer.
Never overwrite or reformat memory cards, but rather date and title them and keep them locked up in a safe place.
When you download the images from your camera or memory card, make copies to two hard drives, and lock up the second drive in a safe place, along with the memory card(s) of the shoot.
Once you have your "working images' downloaded into your computer, make a second copy into a folder called "originals" and lock them so that they can not be easily modified. Only work off of copy of these files.
Correct for color cast, early.
Calibrate your cameras, screen, scanner, and printer, especially the printer.
Do not cheap out on an inexpensive printer, but also understand that high-end printers requires expensive ink, and they need to run images every day to keep the ink lines and heads operational.
Deposit everything, including unused, or unpublished images with the Library of Congress, including images that are worthless.
Shoot in both RAW and JPG at the same time, and have enough of the digital darkroom set up on site so that hardcopy images can be made with little fuss, and CD's or thumb drive's can be provided with "reference images" to the client or model.
Always, without exception, insert a copyright notice inside each and every images at the point of transferring from the camera, into the computer.
Never overwrite or reformat memory cards, but rather date and title them and keep them locked up in a safe place.
When you download the images from your camera or memory card, make copies to two hard drives, and lock up the second drive in a safe place, along with the memory card(s) of the shoot.
Once you have your "working images' downloaded into your computer, make a second copy into a folder called "originals" and lock them so that they can not be easily modified. Only work off of copy of these files.
Correct for color cast, early.
Calibrate your cameras, screen, scanner, and printer, especially the printer.
Do not cheap out on an inexpensive printer, but also understand that high-end printers requires expensive ink, and they need to run images every day to keep the ink lines and heads operational.
Deposit everything, including unused, or unpublished images with the Library of Congress, including images that are worthless.
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Sgt Christian ORourke
I would not recommend shooting in both RAW and JPEG at same time, takes way too much time to save images on the camera when shooting and increases the space used. Also, you get 2 identical images and all you need is one. If you do any high speed shooting, you won't be able to do it. Set the camera to RAW and leave it alone. You get more from the RAW and you will never touch the JPEG, you just create one from your RAW image, which is basically your digital negative. I tried shooting both RAW and jpeg at the same time, never again. Plus it also will slow down your imports to you catalog. Plus the added benefits from editing you RAW images far out-way anything you get from a JPEG.
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SSgt James Atkinson
When I shoot digital photography, I shoot both raw and jpg. I generally have little or no use for the JPG images, except when I need to provide copies of the images to the model or models agent right after the shoot. To facilitate these images I would merely download the memory chips to the computer, take select jpgs and burn them to a CD or thumb drive, and give them to the model as part of their compensation (with my watermark). Then a few days later I woudl give them "portfolio grade" images of a select few of the images I brought in as RAW, cleaned up/touched up, printed on Baytra paper in a size suitable for their portfolio, in the size of their portfolio. While I prefer to shoot only in RAW, import and convert to DNG, by adding the JPG option it merely provided fast access to images. When I shoot RAW I also shoot them at 4 Mega-pixels, instead of at full resolution, and once I import, I run through the jpgs and flag the ones I wish to export to give to the model. When I do the export, I also have it automatically insert a watermark, and of course on import in added my standard meta-data.
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Less is more. easy on the edits. Don't fall for trends. Aim for Timeless.
RossGoodmanPhotography.com
RossGoodmanPhotography.com
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