How a top chicken company cut off black farmers, one by one

After years of working as a sheriff's deputy and a car dealership manager, John Ingrum used his savings to buy a farm some 50 miles east of Jackson, Mississippi. He planned to raise horses on the land and leave the property to his son.
The farm, named Lovin' Acres, came with a few chicken houses, which didn't really interest Ingrum. But then a man showed up from Koch Foods, the country's fifth-largest poultry processor and one of the main chicken companies in Mississippi. Park Ridge-based Koch Foods would deliver flocks and feed — all Ingrum would have to do is house the chicks for a few weeks while they grew big enough to slaughter. The company representative wowed Ingrum with projections for the stream of income he could earn, Ingrum recalled in an interview.
What Ingrum didn't know was that those financial projections overlooked many realities of modern farming in the U.S., where much of the country's agricultural output is controlled by a handful of giant companies. The numbers didn't reflect the debt he might have to incur to configure his chicken houses to the company's specifications. Nor did they reflect the risk that the chicks could show up sick or dead, or that the company could simply stop delivering flocks.